Peptides are short chains of amino acids — the building blocks of proteins such as collagen, elastin, and keratin. When applied topically, they act as cellular messengers, signalling skin cells to perform specific functions. Different peptide sequences trigger different responses, which is why peptides are one of the more versatile categories of skincare actives.

How peptides work

Peptides work through several distinct mechanisms depending on their structure:

• Signal peptides — instruct cells to produce more collagen, elastin, or other structural proteins
• Carrier peptides — deliver trace elements such as copper to support enzyme activity and wound healing
• Neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptides — reduce muscle contraction to soften expression lines
• Enzyme-inhibitor peptides — slow the breakdown of collagen and elastin
• Antimicrobial peptides — support the skin's natural defence against bacteria

Peptides are small enough to penetrate the skin barrier when formulated correctly, and their effects are cumulative — consistent use over 8–12 weeks is required before meaningful results become visible.

The main peptide types

Copper peptides (GHK-Cu)

Copper peptides deliver copper ions to skin cells, supporting wound healing, collagen and elastin production, and barrier repair. They have anti-inflammatory properties and are particularly useful for post-procedure recovery (after lasers, peels, or microneedling), compromised skin barriers, and acne scarring. Effective at 1–3%.

Note: Some evidence suggests copper peptides may reduce retinoid efficacy when applied simultaneously. Use copper peptides in the morning and tretinoin at night if using both.

Matrixyl peptides (signal peptides)

The Matrixyl family are the most widely studied signal peptides for anti-ageing. They stimulate collagen I, III, and IV production, improve skin firmness and elasticity, and reduce wrinkle depth with consistent use. The main variants are:

• Matrixyl (palmitoyl pentapeptide) — stimulates collagen production, reduces wrinkle depth
• Matrixyl 3000 (palmitoyl tripeptide-1 + palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7) — stimulates collagen and hyaluronic acid, reduces inflammation, repairs sun-damaged skin
• Matrixyl Synthe'6 (palmitoyl tripeptide-38) — stimulates six components of the skin matrix, particularly effective for deeper wrinkles

Effective at 3–8%. Results typically become visible at 6–8 weeks, with significant improvement at 12+ weeks.

Argireline (acetyl hexapeptide-8)

Argireline inhibits the neurotransmitter release that causes facial muscle contraction, softening expression lines on the forehead, around the eyes, and between the brows. It does not paralyse muscles — the effect is a gentle reduction in dynamic wrinkle depth with consistent use. Effective at 5–10%. Results typically visible at 8–12 weeks.

Barrier and anti-inflammatory peptides

Several peptides — including hexapeptide-11, oligopeptides, and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 — strengthen the skin barrier, improve moisture retention, reduce transepidermal water loss, and calm inflammation. These are particularly useful for sensitive or reactive skin, during the tretinoin adjustment period, and for post-procedure recovery.

Wound-healing peptides

Tripeptide-1 promotes wound healing, stimulates collagen synthesis, and supports tissue regeneration. Useful for acne scarring, post-procedure skin, and damaged skin.

How to use peptides

Peptides can be used morning and evening — unlike retinoids, they do not cause photosensitivity. Apply after cleansing and any toner, before heavier creams:

1. Cleanser
2. Vitamin C (morning) or tretinoin (evening)
3. Peptide serum
4. Moisturiser
5. SPF 50 (morning)

For detailed guidance on layering peptides with tretinoin and other actives, see our skincare layering guide.

Layering with other actives

Peptides + tretinoin (evening) — a well-established anti-ageing combination. Apply tretinoin first, wait 20 minutes, then apply peptide serum. Peptides may help buffer some of the dryness associated with tretinoin. Exception: copper peptides should be used in the morning, not alongside tretinoin.

Peptides + vitamin C (morning) — complementary collagen-stimulating effects via different pathways. Apply vitamin C first, wait 2–3 minutes, then peptides.

Peptides + niacinamide — both support barrier function. Well tolerated together, can be used morning and evening.

Peptides + AHA/BHA acids — very low pH from acids may degrade some peptides. Use acids at night and peptides in the morning, or wait 20–30 minutes between applications if using both in the same routine.

What to look for in peptide products

Peptides should appear in the first 5–7 ingredients of a product to indicate a meaningful concentration. Most peptides work best at pH 4–6 — very acidic formulations may degrade them. Airless pump packaging and opaque containers help maintain stability. Use within 6–12 months of opening.

Multi-peptide formulations address multiple concerns simultaneously and are appropriate for general anti-ageing. Single-peptide products at higher concentrations are better for targeted concerns — for example, a copper peptide serum specifically for post-procedure recovery or barrier repair.

Frequently asked questions

Are peptides safe?

Yes — peptides are well tolerated by most skin types including sensitive skin, with a low risk of irritation. They are generally considered safe during pregnancy and breastfeeding, unlike retinoids, though you should always consult your GP or midwife before starting new skincare during pregnancy.

Do peptides work as well as tretinoin?

They work differently. Tretinoin is more potent for comprehensive anti-ageing — it drives cell turnover, collagen synthesis, and melanin dispersal at a level peptides cannot match. Peptides offer targeted benefits that tretinoin does not provide, particularly for barrier repair, wound healing, and inflammation. Many people use both for complementary effects.

How long do peptides take to work?

Barrier and anti-inflammatory peptides produce noticeable effects within 1–4 weeks. Collagen-stimulating peptides (Matrixyl) typically show visible results at 6–8 weeks, with significant improvement at 12+ weeks. Argireline typically shows results at 8–12 weeks. Consistent daily use is required throughout.

Can I use copper peptides with tretinoin?

Not at the same time — some evidence suggests copper may reduce retinoid efficacy. Use copper peptides in the morning and tretinoin at night. Other peptide types (Matrixyl, Argireline, barrier peptides) can be used alongside tretinoin in the evening routine.

Which peptide is best for my concern?

For fine lines and firmness: Matrixyl peptides. For expression lines: Argireline. For healing and scarring: copper peptides and tripeptide-1. For barrier damage and sensitivity: hexapeptide-11 and oligopeptides. For inflammation and redness: copper peptides and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7.